I occasionally drive a hitach 65 on rubber blocks and I have never driven a machine that shakes itself apart whilst track so badly
I don't know whether it's the pads being worn the owner liking to run the tracks on the loose side or just what the Hitachi 65 's are like but it feels like the cab is about to fall off
The only other rubber blocks I have driven is a brand new Hitachi 85 which didn't seem half as bad
I agree with Craig rubber blocks can be lethal on a beaver tail
They also make way more mess in mud I don't know about difference in grip but they turn wet ground into a mud bath quicker than rubber bands or steels
They break the blocks of used to track in hardcore to much not just flex out the way
And if being used to track in dry soil when building up ground level they don't really leave an acceptable finish for grass seed like rubber bands or steels would
One final thing is they seem to take a lot of power to turn with on most surfaces but I don't know if the same can be said of larger machines on bands
I can't tell you anything about life expectancy of them
And I haven't driven any comparible size machines on rubber bands
Only smaller on bands or similar size on steels so my thoughts might be a bit misguided
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I hate pinch weld blocks. Your Q about aligning them is the main reason. When you work flat rate, there is no way you are going to jack around w/ those slot blocks. Also they don't fit cars very well. The cut is too narrow sometimes and the depth is almost never correct. Besides I don't go with the theory that you want the lift load on the sheet metal at either side of the pinch weld. Usually that is just single thickness sheet there vs the pinch weld that is at least 2 and often 3 or 4 pieces of sheet. I think the key is spreading the load out. But also realize that most floor jacks will have a tendency at some point in the lift of trying to bend over the pinch weld. When lifting straight up, via a lift at 4 points at once, there is near zero tendency to bend it over. All the lifts I worked on had either the round maybe 4-5 inch pads w/ hard rubber or all steel pads heavily checkered that also flipped up. The advantage of these is they are large enough that hitting the pinch weld is pretty easy to do. One w/ the large steel pads had a 1/2 hole in the middle of each pad and we all had a 2-3 ft long 3/8" steel rod w/ a 1" 90deg bend on one end and a handle bent into the other end. On a car where we would lift on a subframe or something nearer the center of the car, we used our rod to position the lift arm.
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