Regarding the economics and directionality of brushed suspensions of mica powder:
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One way I’ve used mica powder before is to “flash guild”, if that’s the right term: lay down a coat of Wunda-Size or Dux, or other water-borne size as you would to apply metal leaf, then apply the mica powder (as a powder) over the surface, moving loose particles around with a chip brush or similar until all the size is covered. If the adhesive surface is *totally* covered, you can burnish a little with a soft cloth and remove any excess powder in the process, putting it back in the original container with no contamination.
WundaSize, Dux and their friends (basically less viscous/more watery- kinds of contact cement) seem to level fairly well. You have to be careful that only the mica gets fixed by the adhesive, not your sleeve or the brush you’re using to move the mica around.
The size stays open up to 36 hours.
The size does remain kind of soft even when dry– that is, especially if you lay it on generously for better self-leveling, it’s susceptible to impressions and scrapes. But, still might be easier to fix than a paint.
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Mica applied this way won’t show the direction marks of brushing metallic or mica paint, though, of course, it will show any application marks of the size step and flaws in the substrate.
It takes less mica than mixing it in to a binder.
A color-supportive base coat is essential as the mica is still translucent.
I can’t remember ever putting an additional sealer coat over mica used this way, so not sure how that would affect the apparent luster.
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